The first step is to draft out a pattern for the applique. I create a rose and laurel drawing based on the design visible on the reference I’m working from.

I photocopied the design a few times so I could use the copies as a template without destroying my original pattern.

With Prismacolor markers, I roughed out a general idea of how I want the applique to look and tested the markers on my fabric.

The next step is to transfer the design on to adhesive paper. I am using Steam-A-Seam2, which is my favorite type of fusible web adhesive paper, but you can use other brands and have the same results.

I trace the rose design on to the fusible paper on the side that the adhesive material sticks to. This will give me template to cut the fabric out with. Remember that the design will be mirrored when you cut it out.

After tracing the design, I number each petal and leaf so I know where to place them once I cut them out.

After sticking the adhesive side of the fusible paper to the back side of the fabric, I cut out the pieces carefully.

The result is the shape of the rose with the fusible paper attached to the back side, ready to be adhered to the cape.

Using Prismacolor permanent markers, I color the petals of the rose individually. I tested the dye’s colorfastness on a scrap of fabric earlier to make sure the ink would not run if wet.

I stick the applique pieces to the cape and follow the ironing instructions to fix them in place for sewing. For the leaf part of the design I alternated using the front and back of my green material to give a little bit of color variation to the laurel.

Using a small satin stitch (the Ziz-Zag stitch option) I tack down all the edges of the applique with matching embroidery thread. On the backside of the cape I have used a stick on stabilizer that will be torn away once the top stitching is done. This is the most time consuming part of the process and it improves the end result if you do not rush through this step.

The end result is here. The process will be repeated on the other side. This took the better part of a day to complete, so give yourself time if you need to add applique to your costume.

Here’s the design when draped over my dressform. I still need to add the collar, lining, and trim to the cape. It is time consuming, but fun adding in details to a costume!

I’ve started off by making basic paper patterns for some of the armor on the costume during earlier livestreams on twitch. These pieces are the foundation of the patterns, and I’ll be using tracing paper to add more elaborate designs to them.

The elbow armor is a very basic shape.  I’ve created darts in the pattern, but I’ll add more compound curve to the actual armor with heat.

Using paper clips, I test the shape of the pattern.

Using tracing paper, I added the designs I will inset and raise on the armor.

To create an embossed effect, I am using sticky backed craft foam to create layers.

I make a photocopy of the tracing paper designs to cut up and use as stencils.

I create a stencil out of the floral design for the upper arm armor. I’ll be cutting out the areas I’m marking with a permanent marker.

All of the silver areas are going to be cut away.

With a hobby knife, I remove the craft foam from the marked areas and cut the shape out.

I removed the sticker backing from the cut piece of foam and stick it to several layers of craft foam I’ve sandwiched together to create thickness.

For working with Worbla, you’ll need a heat gun. I like using one that is designed for crafting because it is easier to use with projects like this that have detail work.

After heating the Worbla. I slowly press the material into the grooves in the craft foam.

I like to use a clay sculpting tool because it has a flat side for defining edges and a curved end for pressing the Worbla into the groves of the design.

Here’s the end result after 10 minutes or so of heating and working the worbla into the design. I’ve shaped the piece to curve around my upper arm. I’ll repeat this process with each part of the armor. The next step is to surface the material and paint it!

Each month in 2015 will see a new costume set, which will come with a separate buff item that changes on a 3 month cycle. That means the buff for January will be the same in February and March, with a new buff item included in April’s Platinum Boxes.

The concept art includes a little friend in blue, but that costume will have a later release date and is not included in this month’s set.

It’s dyeable, of course! I like the set even better in blue!

Forgotten Payon will be launched on the 9th, and development has stressed that it will be a hard region, so the buff included in this set would be handy. You’ll want to get your parties prepared for this new region. Don’t venture in alone and ill-equipped! Eddga is one tough dude. He and his pack will send you home in a full body cast if you don’t bring your A game.

Back on the costume topic, I’ve seen the costumes coming in through September. I’m excited to say the least! It’s a challenge not sharing them all right now. There are some really cool sets coming up so even if Tai Chi isn’t your personal style, there will be something for everyone released this year.
TL;DR: NEW COSTUMES! THEY ARE COMING! Hashtag 2015 Hashtag Awesome

Rather than the costume having temp stats attached to it for a period of time and being part of the random selection of costumes, the Noble set will be sold in a platinum packs for either the costume or the accessory, along with a chance coupon and a boost item!

Buy the costume and get Norns Blessing Effect item (STR +5%/INT +5%/AGI +5%/Phy.ATT +2000/Mag.ATT +2000/ Period: 28Days)
Buy the accessory hat and get Midgard’s Grace Effect item (STR +20/INT +20/AGI +20/Max HP +500/Max SP +300/Item Drop Rate +30%/ Period : 28 Days)

Whether you use the boost items right away or save them for challenging Forgotton Payon at the end of the month is up to you~
Hoping for the munil costume box to return? It’ll be back in the Kafra Shop again with this new costume after Monday’s maintenance!